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Memories of Epic Places Around the World - Far West China (Xinjiang)

Writer: Riitta HänninenRiitta Hänninen

I have had the opportunity to organise races on all seven continents during my 12 years in this job. Although it’s been really hectic, I’m really grateful for these years. As race organisers, we travel to the 4 Deserts locations each year and there have been multiple locations in each country to keep things interesting. In addition, the changing locations ‘roving races’ have expanded my travel map massively. These travels have created a tapestry of unforgettable memories across the globe, from the vast landscapes of China, Chile, Egypt, Namibia, Mongolia as well as Australia, Nepal, Jordan, Iceland, Madagascar, Ecuador, Sri Lanka, Argentina (Patagonia), Republic of Georgia and Lapland (Finland). And, of course, our adventures wouldn’t be complete without the otherworldly expanse of the white continent—Antarctica.


As an organiser, my memories are a mix of challenging moments leading up to the event and unforgettable experiences during the race. There are hilarious and random situations that make it all fun, as well as heartwarming moments that touch your soul like nothing else. When we're on-site, everyone creates their own stories depending on their role and where they are in the race. Here are some of my personal experiences from different locations. My desert colleagues can of course share a whole lot more!


Far west China (Xinjiang)


The Gobi March in Xinjiang, China, was the event that kickstarted my journey in 2010. It quickly became one of my top favorite places on this planet! Located by the ancient Silk Road in the far west of China (formerly known as East Turkestan), this place has a true historic vibe mixed with Central Asian and Oriental influences. Picture traveling to Ürümqi, the capital, and hopping on further local transport to each location – getting there was always exciting!


Map: Xinjiang Province and the neighboring countries


From the desert scenery, Tianshan Mountains, and a view of the majestic K2 Mountain, to the Karakorum highway, lush valleys, and bustling cities - this region has it all. And let's not forget the colorful towns, Islamic architecture, local markets, and the friendly faces of over 40 ethnic minorities, including Uyghurs, Kazakhs, Mongolians, Uzbeks, Tatars, and Han Chinese. Just an amazing blend.


The streets are filled with food markets and local produce. From sizzling lamb kebabs to Xinjiang noodles skilfully made by scarf-headed Uyghur women. Kazakh men baking flatbreads … and fresh fruits and vegetables at the wet markets! Just wandering on the streets was a feast for a travel foodie. I have many great memories and friendships from this region where I grew a special bond with the friendly locals we worked with. Kashgar, Taklamakan, Hami, Ürümqi, and Bole were all places that I came to know well.


Sadly, the year 2017 was my last time working in the province. Gobi March these days takes place in Mongolia which different but also stunning and interesting.




Route Creation Trips (Recces)


Scouting for connections and routes that often even locals don’t know about, driving thousands of kilometers in 4x4 vehicles, conquering sand dunes and crossing rivers. Sleeping in small villages in the middle of nowhere. These route creation trips are a blast, full of cultural wonders, feeling a bit like Marco Polo at times (although we did have it a bit easier!). No pressure of having participants there just yet, just a core team on a mission to find the most breathtaking routes for each race.


One of my fondest memories was during a recce in the Altai mountains near the Kazakhstan border. I was with a local colleague, a driver and Pierre, a French outdoor guru and our “mountain goat” in his 60s. He used to manage the classic old race series, Raid Galois, before working for RacingThePlanet. We walked in a river valley when a horseman suddenly emerged from a gorge. The remote location, a sudden surprise, his clothes and his looks … I was 200 years back in history.


Our driver caught up with us, and together we drove along the mountain road. The most beautiful sight, we encountered was thousands of sheep with their shepherds. And that's not all, as we crossed the snowline, we were greeted by hundreds of yaks. The day was complete when we found an access route to the stunning shores of Lake Sayram, the second deepest lake in China and one of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen. This has got to be a new course, we thought. And that’s what it became, stage 5 of the Gobi March 2013 and 2014.




During the same trip, we were accompanied by a local governor, who graciously showed us the highlights of the region. As in many countries in Asia, rice wine was offered to guests here. Whenever we drove past an "Obo," a Mongolian shrine, it was a tradition to toast for good fortune. Let's just say there were many Obos, and as the governor's face turned redder with each toast, I quickly learned to delegate my drinking duty to the others.


We often stayed in locations so remote that hotels or guest houses were non-existent. On one particular trip near the Kazakhstan border, a friendly border guard offered his house for us to stay. We weren't your typical guests, but he was thrilled to have international visitors. That evening, his wife prepared a feast, and we all sat on the floor around the table, sharing an incredible meal typical of the region. Of course, it was accompanied by more local rice wine. Our host led the rounds with enthusiasm. Thomas, a project colleague from Germany, and Pierre were equally enthusiastic. While I, gracefully declined after round 5 (!).


The next morning, we woke up in our sleeping bags on the floor, feeling more than a bit hazy but grateful for the local tips and routing information we had received. Rice wine shots truly require dedication to your work. That’s how proper due diligence gets done! Anyone who works in the more unusual parts of the world, or anywhere in China, can probably relate to this experience...



 
 

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